First Look: Nina Ricci Fall 2011
First Look: Nina Ricci Fall 2011!
On the mood board that Peter Copping of Nina Ricci has created for his fall collection is artwork by everyone from Holbein to John Currin, Tamara de Lempicka to Marlene Dumas. What unites his gallery is that all the works are portraits of women. “I was looking at representations of women,” Copping said, while his stylist Alex White and casting director James Scully were calmly working in the background finalizing the looks for Nina Ricci’s Thursday evening show. “And from there I might have taken a color or a detail,” he said as he indicated the deep-green backdrop of a Currin nude. “But in the show, the room will be full of mirrors, so the girls can look at themselves wearing the clothes. It’s how a woman sees herself in what I do that’s important.” This is, in essence, what Copping does for Ricci, which is to always keep the woman he wants to dress firmly in the picture.
For fall, the idea of artistic representation is mixed up with elements of boudoir dressing—“It’s very Ricci,” Copping said—like the oversize, almost bathrobe-like coats in shell pink boucle or green satin. He retains the ease elsewhere by taking all the stiffness and heaviness out of channel-seamed peplum jackets and curvy skirts that flare at the knee, their exquisite elegance amplified by the fact that they are as light as a feather and as uncomplicated to wear as a T-shirt. There’s playful sensuality too, like a rose leather skirt that gleams like latex, and pale pink brush-stroke gored chiffon skirt layered with black to toughen it up. Not to mention Copping’s deft hand with embellishment: Reflect on his necklaces constructed out of paste stones that look like they’ve been recycled from a smashed up chandelier mixed with mirrored silver discs.
Regards, Velvet Magazine