Kitchen Confidential: DIY Lip Color with Jeanine Lobell

by VelvetMagazineME

Kitchen Confidential: DIY Lip Color with Jeanine Lobell




You have to finish one before you start another!” Jeanine Lobell instructs her eight-year-old daughter, Poppy, on a recent Saturday morning. We’re in the family’s Upper East Side kitchen, but we’re not making pancakes. We’re making lipstick. Lobell, the makeup artist who founded Stila, has several projects in the works (including a collaboration with Opening Ceremony), and who better to inspire new color combinations than her young daughters Esme, Wallis, and Poppy? Joining them today is the photographer Mary Frey and her ten-year-old daughter Gray (dad is Mario Sorrenti), makeup artist buddy Jo Strettell and her daughter Jasper, several of Esme’s friends from a sleepover the night before, and Lobell’s husband, the actor Anthony Edwards, popping in and out.

With coffee brewing and a steady stream of pop favorites humming from the iPod speakers, the group gets to work. Drugstore buys like castor oil, vitamin E sticks, colorless lip glosses and balms are assembled in the sunny green kitchen, along with a rainbow of colored powder pigments and a variety of new plastic tubes, jars, and palettes, all from Lobell’s go-to online supplier,

“Before I knew how to develop makeup in a lab, I’d do it like this,” says Lobell, as she mashes two lipsticks together. “You can even take a favorite pressed eye shadow, scrape it, and mix it with a lip balm to create a sheer lip color. If you love a lipstick but it’s too chalky, you can pop it out of the tube and rework it. You can reformulate things. There are no rules.”

Wallis and Gray flip through packets of pigments and decide to make a grape-colored gloss. The girls jostle for the microwave, waiting their turn to melt down the contents of a little plastic cup. They’ve begun with one part vitamin E stick to two parts castor oil, zapping the combo in ten-second intervals until smooth. Then they sprinkle a pigment into the mix and gingerly blend, until their desired opacity is achieved—in this case, Barney-the-dinosaur purple. The still-runny finished product slides into an empty compact to harden. Meanwhile, teenagers Esme and her pal Cara work on a sheer, shimmery pink—whose base is a preexisting eye shadow—that Lobell expertly pours into a slim-line tube. The key is getting the right consistency: “Castor oil makes things runnier and shinier. Just add a little bit at a time, and keep heating and stirring with a small spoon until you get it where you want it to be. Then pour it into something before it sets.”

The adults get in on the action, too: Frey quietly works on a stunning green cream eye shadow, which debuts to rave reviews from Lobell. “It looks like one of my Stila colors!” she says, dashing out of the room and returning with the original. “I think it’s fun to remake your favorite color. Say you love a lipstick, but you want it sheer for the summer. There are tons of lipsticks out there, but making your own is kinda groovy if you ask me.”

Ref: Vogue

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Regards, Velvet Magazine